Say Cheese, Please!

The comfort of cheese pervades palates worldwide.  Whether faced with a creamy Gorgonzola, its blue veins outstretching and beckoning for you to taste or a gooey molten Gruyere oozing through the toasty blankets of a grilled cheese sandwich, cheese is a glorious food.  From the simplest form of an assortment of cheeses arranged artfully on a platter to a winning combination of molten goodness bubbling in a baking dish of pasta, it can be savored in so many presentations.

There are hundreds of varieties of cheese throughout the world.  If we examine the origins of blue cheese alone, Italy produces their coveted Gorgonzola, France is famed for its Roquefort, England is renowned for its Stilton, Spain churns out a stunning Cabrales and every American has surely sampled Maytag blue.  Besides the blue cheeses, there are soft and creamy cheeses, such as triple-crèmes, and firm cheeses such as Gruyere, Ementhaler, Provolone, Cheddar and Gouda, and very hard cheeses such as pecorino Romano.  Cheese can be produced from cow’s milk, goat’s milk and sheep’s milk.  Some cheeses, such as Gouda, are best when aged for a number of years, developing the subtlest specks of crispiness throughout the sample.  The best creamier cheeses, such as true Brie, are not legally sold in the United States due to ridiculously stringent laws governing the pasteurization of dairy products.  Those wedges and wheels of “brie” spotted in every American supermarket are imposters!  Even those that are imported from France were produced in accordance with U.S. laws in order to be exported to the U.S.  No Frenchman would be caught dead consuming that in their native land.  Since the U.S. bans the good stuff, the French enjoy savoring it all to themselves. 

Some of the most comforting of winter fare showcases cheese as the star of the dish.  Macaroni and cheese tops the list, as does a grilled cheese sandwich.  The Italian variation of grilled cheese, the pannini, has been basking in fame in recent years.  Just as a grilled cheese sandwich accompanied by a bowl of piping hot tomato soup is a classic warm welcome in from the bitter cold, the pannini accompanied by a side salad of mesclun greens has taken the café lunch scene by storm.  Macaroni and cheese, however, reigns as the perpetual cheesy comfort dinner choice in homes across America.

Macaroni and cheese can be as simple as the basic macaroni pasta coated with the classic cheddar sauce.  The dish has evolved to also include numerous combinations of stirred in ingredients to add more flavors and textures and ethnic flare.  Utilizing different cheeses has also served to impart nuances of regional and international flavor appeal.  One of the most involved macaroni and cheese dinners I have made to date remains Brian’s favored choice.  It’s a recipe from an old issue of Bon Appetit magazine.  The macaroni and cheese sauce contains several cheeses, and the dish contains breaded chunks of fried chicken.  The finishing touch is a drizzle of Buffalo chicken wing sauce over the top.

Heartier appetites call for the addition of meat, such as sausage or chicken, or seafood, such as lobster or shrimp, into the baking dish of macaroni and cheese.  Choose the ethnicity and/or tone of the dish that you wish to present.  Seeking a romantic variation? Try lobster, with a sauce that contains fontina, shallots and a touch of cream sherry or cognac.  Going Cajun for Mardi Gras? Add chunks of Andouille sausage, green peppers, cheddar or smoked gouda-based sauce and a sprinkle of Cajun seasoning.  For dinner party elegance, go for a macaroni and cheese studded with mushrooms in a Gruyere-based sauce with truffle oil.

Macaroni and Cheese

Ingredients:

1 pound short-cut pasta, such as elbows, small shells, penne

3 cups milk

4 tablespoons butter

4 tablespoons flour

8 ounces sharp Cheddar cheese, shredded

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

½ cup breadcrumbs

1 teaspoon paprika

Preheat oven to 400-degres.  Lightly grease a baking dish.  In a small bowl, combine the breadcrumbs and the paprika until well mixed, set aside.  Bring a large pot of water to a boil, add the pasta to the boiling water and cook for about ten minutes.  Drain the pasta and set aside.  In a saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat.  Once melted, then add the flour.  Stir for about a minute, then begin gradually adding the milk, stirring all the while so that the ingredients all blend together.  Once blended and smooth and the mixture starts to thicken, remove the pot from the heat and stir in the cheese and the pepper, stirring until the cheese has melted and incorporated into the sauce.  Add the cooked pasta and stir to thoroughly coat with the sauce.  Pour into the prepared baking dish.  Sprinkle the top with the breadcrumb mixture and bake for 30-40 minutes or until the sauce is bubbly and the top is lightly browned.  Serves four.

Stir-Ins and Toppers:

Before baking the above macaroni and cheese, try stirring in 1-inch pieces of cooked bacon and top the macaroni and cheese with diced fresh plum tomatoes before sprinkling with the breadcrumb mixture.  Alternately, swap out the bacon for 1 pound cooked lobster meat or shrimp.

For a Southwestern variation: substitute 4 ounces of Monterey Jack cheese for half of the Cheddar.  Stir in half a cup of diced red bell pepper and one four-ounce can of diced green chilies.  Substitute ½ teaspoon ground cumin and ½ teaspoon for the paprika in the breadcrumb topping.

For a spicy Mexican version: instead of the 8 ounces of Cheddar, use only 4 ounces, plus 2 ounces of Monterey Jack and 2 ounces of Manchego.  Stir in ½ pound cooked bulk chorizo sausage and 2 finely chopped chipotle chilies.  Substitute chili powder for the paprika in the breadcrumb topping.

For a Cajun variation: stir in ½ pound cooked bulk Andouille sausage.  Substitute Cajun seasoning for the paprika in the breadcrumb topping.  Very lightly drizzle Tobasco or other hot sauce over the topping.

For a cheese lover’s dream: instead of the 8 ounces of Cheddar, use only 3 ounces, plus 3 ounces of comte or Gruyere and 2 ounces of Roquefort blue cheese.  Omit the paprika and use finely chopped fresh parsley or basil with the breadcrumbs instead.

From olives to nuts to peas to chicken nuggets, the possibilities are infinite.  Choose a style of cuisine that you enjoy and play with ingredients;  you’ll serve up something exciting every time.

There are three cheese products that I implore every living thing capable of food consumption to avoid.  First and foremost, the green can found in the pasta and tomato sauce aisle of supermarkets.  Kraft grated Parmesan “cheese” is merely sodium sawdust.  This is not cheese and any pasta, or Italian being served such pasta, will baulk and recoil at the mere sight of such a product being placed on the table.  Next, we come to another abomination, known to American palates simply as American “cheese.”  Whether sliced behind the deli counter or purchased as Kraft Singles in the dairy section, American cheese is not produced as cheese per say, but rather the resulting product of combining the scraps of refuse and by-products left by the cheese-making process. Does that really sound edible to you?  The stuff resembles bland slices of rubber.  Try a blind taste test by sampling a grilled cheese sandwich made with Kraft Singles and one made with sliced cheddar; it will be a flavor-awakening experience.  Finally, at number three, we have the famed blue box of Kraft macaroni and cheese.  Are you noticing a pattern here?  I don’t think Kraft actually produces edibles after all.  Once you actually prepare the combination, the result is a plate of elbow macaroni clad in a day glow orange sauce that tastes, well, cheesy, and I don’t mean in the cheese sense.  The ingredient label lists a host of things that you won’t find in homemade recipes.  Guess what?  Homemade macaroni and cheese is really not that hard!  You boil pasta and stir a few things in a pot to make the sauce, just like the one in the box!  The difference is in the flavor and in the knowledge that you didn’t just heap something reminiscent of your kid’s chemistry set potions into the pot. 

Someday, I just might figure out why there is a need for all of these fake cheese products.  Cheese Wiz is another prime example.  The foodie revolution of the last couple of decades has introduced our kitchens to a host of stellar cheeses from around the globe.  While Italy and France may hold the popular title of top cheese producer, there are numerous artisan cheese makers here in the U.S.  For my fellow Long Islanders, a trip to the Catapano goat farm out east will reward with award-winning goat cheeses in a range of varieties, as well as other goat’s milk dairy products, beauty products and the opportunity to be up close and personal with the goats who welcome hands-on greetings and attention.  Goodale Farms in Riverhead also produces goat cheeses and other dairy products.  Mecox Bay, located in the Hamptons, produces excellent varieties of cheese.  For those craving a sampling of several cheeses, a visit to the Village Cheese Shop is in order.  Located in Mattituck and also in Southampton, the market offers an extensive array of cheeses from around the world.  Their selection can only be topped by the cheese department of Fairway Market, located in Plainview as well as in Manhattan.  Fairway’s cheese department is by far the most impressive display that I have seen.  C'est Cheese, located in the village of Port Jefferson, offers a selection of international cheeses for purchase, as well as a dining experience where menu items based on cheese are prepared on the premises for immediate enjoyment with locally produced wines and craft beers.

 

Food For Thought

As delicious as any dish tastes when it contains cheese, the best way to sample cheese is in its pure form.  When assembled creatively and attractively, a cheese platter can stand as the perfect conversation starter as guests arrive and assemble in the living room or kitchen, or as an elegant close to dinner itself.  Begin by lining a large platter or board with decorative and edible leafy greens, such as leaves of Savoy lettuce.  Arrange three different cheeses on the board.  I like to choose one blue variety, one soft, creamy, gooey specimen and one hard cheese.  For example, a Roquefort, a Delice de Bourgogne and an aged Gouda.  You can stick to cheeses from one corner of the world or go with a combination.  Fill in the rest of the board with rows or stacks of crackers and/or sliced baguette, bunches of fruits such as grapes, figs, sliced apples or pears or berries, and perhaps a dish of artisanal preserves, fruit relish or nuts, if desired.  If the platter is served to conclude a meal, an additional small dish of premium chocolates would round things out nicely.  If you are seeking a simpler, much smaller option, simply set out a quality cheese with a perfectly paired libation.  For example, arrange some sliced Bosc pears alongside a big wedge of English Stilton and a bottle of Port for a very classic combination.

Chocolate Indulgences

Chocolate is the mostly widely used and versatile ingredient when creating desserts.  From the simplest chocolate cake, brownie or chocolate chip cookie to elaborately sculpted presentations such as the chocolate sack or chocolate bombe.  From warm-out-of-the-oven molten cakes to smooth and creamy gelato, chocolate is the ultimate in comfort sweets.  Nothing says ‘I love you’ like the presentation of a homemade chocolate confection.

Chocolate cakes saw the flourless craze not so long ago.  These cakes were dense and very chocolatey, needing very little in the way of embellishment other than a sprinkle of confectioners sugar or a dollop of whipped cream on the side.  Then the red velvet trend came along, with spoonfuls of red food coloring being heaped into chocolate batter bowls of every baker’s kitchen.  In recent months, the chocolate cake has experienced another makeover fad with the addition of red wine into the batter.

Chocolate cupcakes may be crowned with a variety of frostings, from orange to peanut butter.  Last year I baked red velvet cupcakes and topped them with cream cheese frosting and added a finishing touch of red casting sugar and a chocolate heart on top of each in honor of Valentine’s Day.  Now cupcakes have deferred to the back of the stage as the whoopie pie makes its appearance in the spotlight.   A whoopie pie is comprised of two small cakes with a creamy filling sandwiched in between; imagine a soft oreo that has morphed to four or five times its size. 

Loving spoonfuls of chocolate are perhaps the most comforting of all.  One of my favorite chocolate classics is a bowl of French chocolate mousse.  Premium quality chocolate ice creams and gelatos are the perfect pick me up.

Brownies and cookies serve as a backdrop for numerous additions of flavor and texture, from all varieties of nuts to chocolate chips to white chocolate chunks to peanut butter chips.  Other finger-friendly dining chocolate options include candies, such as truffles, bark and fudge, and chocolate dipped fruits such as strawberries and bananas.  If you are fortunate enough to have access to a gourmet chocolatier, then you have a gold mine of chocolates awaiting your indulgence. 

When baking with chocolate, as with any other ingredient in your culinary projects, always use a premium quality brand of cocoa.  Those who prefer dark chocolate should aim for a baking chocolate with a cocoa content of 70% or higher.  The higher the concentration, the stronger the flavor will be.  Alternately, you can simply use my trick: if you have semi-sweet baking chocolate and unsweetened baking chocolate in the pantry, use equal parts of both in your recipe.   If a recipe calls for eight ounces of semisweet chocolate, scale that down to four, or even three, and use unsweetened chocolate for the remaining four to five ounces.  Another trick for enhancing the flavor is the addition of instant espresso powder into the batter.  The coffee flavor melds with the chocolate and really brings the essence of the cocoa to the next level; think of it as chocolate on steroids.

I use my microwave for very few things.  I reheat my coffee in it, warm up leftovers and melt chocolate.  To melt chocolate in a microwave, place the chips or coarsely chopped chocolate in a microwave proof bowl.  Heat at half-power for one minute, stir, and then repeat.  Repeat again. Continue this cycle until the chocolate is all melted and smooth when stirred.

While blissfully delicious on its own, chocolate also has the versatility to combine with a number of other flavors.  For instance, the Mexicans have incorporated cinnamon into their chocolate desserts for many years.  From peppermint patties to the grasshopper pie, mint and chocolate create a refreshing combination.  Dark chocolate with orange is a perfect matrimony, and we all know what wonderful things happen when peanut butter meets chocolate.  Mocha was created with the union of chocolate and coffee.

The comfort of chocolate and the aroma of a chocolate delicacy baking in the oven are especially appreciated during the winter months.  Conveniently, we have a holiday this month that allows us to reap such benefits.  Bake a platter of chocolate goodness for your sweetie this Valentine’s Day.  A heart-shaped chocolate cake will be a fitting holiday tribute; or conclude a homemade Valentine dinner for two with these individual molten chocolate-raspberry cakes.

Molten Chocolate Raspberry Cakes

Ingredients:

1 ounce semi-sweet baking chocolate

1 ounce unsweetened baking chocolate

4 tablespoons butter

1 tablespoon Chambord (raspberry liqueur)

½ teaspoon vanilla extract

½ cup confectioners’ sugar

1 egg

1 egg yolk

3 tablespoons flour

Additional confectioners’ sugar

Fresh raspberries

Preheat oven to 425-degrees.  Thoroughly coat the insides of two six-ounce ramekins and place them on a baking sheet.

In a medium, nonstick saucepan over medium heat, melt the chocolates and the 4 tablespoons of butter, stirring constantly, until the mixture is completely melted, combined and smooth.  Remove from the heat and allow to sit for ten minutes, stirring occasionally.  Stir in the Chambord, vanilla and sugar until blended.  Whisk in the egg and the yolk.  Stir in the flour.  Once all ingredients are combined, transfer batter into the two prepared ramekins.

Bake in the oven for about 15 minutes, or until the edges are firm but the center is still soft.  Remove from the oven and let stand for one minute.  Run a sharp knife blade around the sides of each ramekin to loosen the cakes.  Top each ramekin with a dessert plate and invert, unmolding the cake onto the plate.  Sprinkle each cake with a dusting of additional confectioners’ sugar and arrange fresh raspberries around the cake.  Serve at once.  Serves 2.

Note: other flavors of liqueurs can be swapped out for the Chambord, such as Cointreau (orange) or Crème de Menthe (mint).

For an afternoon of chocolate celebration, bake a batch of brownies

Food for Thought

Be sure to get your chocolate fix in liquid form.  After all, a body needs fluids.  There is the eternal winter favorite of hot chocolate, of which my personal fave is Williams Sonoma brand.  The product is actually chocolate shavings, not powdered stuff, so it’s rich and satisfying.  For cordial sipping, enjoy Godiva liqueurs.  Cream de Cocao will also serve well for making martinis and other mixed cocktails.  Craft beer aficionados and chocolate lovers can rejoice in a host of chocolate flavored brews, from Young’s Double Chocolate Stout and Ommegang’s Seduction to my personal favorite: Mokah by Southern Tier, the flavor is reminiscent of Tootsie Rolls.  

Super Bowls for the Super Bowl

As Super Bowl Sunday XLVII makes its approach, all talk turns to the highly anticipated football spectacle.  Even those who avoid the entire preceding season will embrace the excuse this February 3rd to gather with friends in a cozy living room to view the most-watched broadcast and delve into a buffet of fun foods.

Personally, I am not a football fan.  The viewers’ Neanderthal behavior displayed by supposedly grown men, even touted shamelessly in public restaurants that display weekly games on numerous flat screen monitors throughout their establishment, is a mentality that I simply cannot relate to, nor can my husband, thankfully.  Oh, but wait, did someone say food?  Well, now, that’s different.  If food is involved, I am a willing participant of the Super Bowl gathering.

Whether hosting a living room full of barbarians in your own home or a guest to your brother-in-law’s home because he has the 85-inch television, keep in mind that the food is supposed to be fun.  Once again, juvenile mentality yields finger food.  But hey, finger food is fun, it’s easy and there’s a lot less dishware to clean up!   Oversized platters piled with spicy Buffalo chicken wings, nachos smothered in melted cheddar jack cheese and quesadillas are all popular fare for a Super Bowl spread.  Piping bowls of chili are also delved into with reckless abandon.  The most coveted game time snack is the humble dip.  Bowls of various styles of dips and plenty of chips will keep fans happy through the duration.

Get into the team spirit by selecting dishware and paper napkins in the teams’ colors.  This year that includes purple, black and gold for the Baltimore Ravens and red for the San Francisco 49ers.  

Cold dips can be made in advance, requiring no cooking.  Just mix and go, it doesn’t get easier than that.  Hot dips can be prepared in advance in the baking dish, stored in the refrigerator and then cooked at the last minute.  Serve a combination of both varieties, and try to select a few different styles.

As an added culinary bonus this year, celebrate the location of the Super Bowl’s hosting city of New Orleans by incorporating some Cajun munchies to the tasty lineup.  This can be as simple as frying up slices of Andouille sausage, sticking toothpicks into them and putting them out with a bowl of honey mustard dipping sauce.  A bowl of Cajun-spiced nuts would be perfect as well.  Swap out the chili this year in favor of bowls of seafood gumbo, or serve fried shrimp Po Boy sandwiches instead of the same old ham and American cheese hero.  Mix up some Hurricane cocktails and offer Abita craft beers from Louisiana – I recommend their Turbo Dog and Purple Haze brews.

Here are a few simple recipes to kick off your Super Bowl Sunday.  Most of these are served in bowls, but as an added bonus I give you my recipe for southwestern quesadillas.

Guacamole

Ingredients:

4 avocados, pitted and peeled

2 tomatoes, seeded and cut into eighths

½ onion, coarsely chopped

4 cans of diced green chilies

¼ cup lime juice

1 ½ teaspoons salt

Okay, pay attention, this is really difficult: place all ingredients into a large food processor bowl and process until combined.  Pour into a serving bowl and serve with corn chips or tortilla chips.

Black Bean Dip

2 15-ounce cans black beans, drained and rinsed

2/3 cup olive oil

6 cloves garlic

¼ cup chopped cilantro

2 teaspoons hot sauce

1 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

Once again, place all ingredients into a large food processor bowl and process until smooth.  Pour into a serving bowl, top with a thick layer of sour cream, leaving a 1-inch border of the dip visible around the edge, and serve with tortilla chips.

Cajun-Seasoned Crab and Spinach Dip

12 ounces crabmeat

16-ounces chopped frozen spinach, thawed and well drained of liquid

2/3 cup mayonnaise

2/3 cup sour cream

1 teaspoon Cajun Seasoning

1 ½ cups shredded cheddar cheese or Swiss cheese

Preheat oven to 350-degrees.  Combine the crab, spinach, mayonnaise, sour cream and Cajun seasoning in a baking dish (a 1 ½ quart Corning dish works well).  Top with the cheese and place in the oven for about 25 minutes or until heated through and the cheese is melted.  Serve with crackers.

Blue Cheese Dip

Ingredients:

2 cups sour cream

2 cups crumbled blue cheese (packed)

1 cup cream cheese, softened to room temperature

2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce

1 teaspoon garlic powder

1 teaspoon hot sauce

Place all ingredients in a food processor bowl until smooth.  Pour into a serving bowl.  Serve as an accompanying dipper for Buffalo wings and celery sticks.

Extra Crunchy Sweet & Spicy Almonds

Ingredients:

½ cup honey

1 tablespoons orange juice

1 pound whole unsalted almonds

½ cup turbinado sugar (raw sugar)

1 teaspoon chipotle chili powder (more if you really love heat!)

1 teaspoon sea salt

1 tablespoon turbinado sugar

1 tablespoon sea salt crystals

Preheat oven to 350-degrees.  In a medium saucepan over low heat, warm the honey and the orange juice until the honey is thin and the two ingredients are combined.  Remove from heat.  Add the chili powder and salt, combine.  Add the almonds and toss to coat each nut.  Add the sugar and toss once again until the almonds have been coated with the mixture.  Spread the nuts in a single layer over a nonstick baking sheet.  Place in the oven for about 20 minutes, tossing the nuts once halfway through cooking time.  Remove from the oven and sprinkle with an additional tablespoon each of turbinado sugar and sea salt crystals.  Stir to combine and to loosen the nuts, as they will start to clump together as they cool.  Stir every few minutes until they have thoroughly cooled, then transfer them to a serving bowl.

Quesadillas

Ingredients:

1 package large size flour tortillas

1 pound chorizo sausage, chopped

1 red bell pepper, finely diced

2 cans diced green chilies

1 pound Cheddar-Monterey Jack cheese

Sour cream

1 bunch scallions, thinly sliced crosswise

In a skillet, fry the chorizo sausage over medium-high heat until cooked.  Add the red pepper and sautee for another two minutes.  Remove from heat.  In a clean skillet (I like cast iron for this one), place one tortilla.  Arrange some of the cheese on the tortilla, and then top with some of the sausage, pepper and chilies.  Cover with another tortilla.  Cook over medium-high heat until the underside starts to brown and the cheese starts to melt.  Carefully turn the quesadilla over and cook the other side.  Once the cheese is melted, slide the quesadilla from the skillet onto a cutting board.  Using a large, sharp knife cut the quesadilla into six wedges, just as you would a pizza.  With the help of a spatula, transfer the pieces to a serving plate, top each with a tiny dollop of sour cream and a sprinkle of scallions and serve at once.

Of course, a Super Bowl party really doesn’t seem complete with a good, hearty chili.  Here’s my chili recipe, which can be made in advance and reheated just before the game starts.  Remember my trick for all entertaining scenarios: enjoy your own party by making a few offerings yourself and buying some high quality already prepared items as well.  For example, nothing beats homemade dips and chilies, but you can buy delicious cooked wings at many supermarket deli sections, just heat them up and serve with my blue cheese dip.  

A Bird In the Oven

One of the easiest ways to produce a winter meal is to simply have the oven do all of the work.  With just twenty minutes of prep time and then relaxing with a glass of wine as you catch up on Facebook commentary and emails, or watch an episode of your favorite show that you recorded, dinner is ready to be served an hour or two later.  The star of such a meal is the humble chicken, succulently juicy with a golden-brown skin that rivals that of summer sun-worshippers on the beach.  Roasted chicken is old-fashioned comfort food, reminiscent for some of Sunday dinners at Grandma’s house in days of yore, conjuring up Norman Rockwell’s family dinner images.

Admittedly, basic roast chicken can get boring very quickly.  When some people hear roast chicken, they envision a bland-looking bird seasoned with salt and pepper and perhaps basted with stock and melted butter.  This equates to a blank canvas highlighted with a couple of dabs of white paint as it sits on an artist’s easel.  That canvas is screaming for more; more colors, more strokes, more depth, more creativity.  Similarly, tasters of the aforementioned bird are clamoring for more flavors, textures and even colors.

The interior cavity of the chicken is a perfect little steam pot when the fowl is roasting away in a 450-degree oven.  When preparing the bird for its date with the oven, stuff it with flavor-boosting ingredients such as a quartered lemon or orange, a handful of peeled whole garlic cloves and bundles of fresh herbs such as sage, thyme, rosemary or a combination.  As the juices of the chicken begin to release during the cooking process, these ingredients will steam and self-baste the interior of the bird with their flavors.  Once stuffed, tie the ends of the drumsticks tightly together to narrow the opening, thus holding that steam action inside the bird.

At the top of the breasts, one can carefully slip a finger or two under the skin of each breast, loosening it to create a pocket in between the skin and the meat.  Once the two pockets have been formed over the entire top of the chicken, you can now stuff more flavor enhancers underneath the skin.  Fresh sage leaves, basil leaves or rosemary sprigs are commonly used.  Another nice trick is to enlist the help of a pastry bag and pipe pesto into those pockets, gently pressing down on the bulge to evenly distribute the pesto throughout the pockets.

The surface needs some flavor now as well.  Rub the entire surface with a little extra-virgin olive oil and sprinkle the bird generously with sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper.  Sprigs of rosemary or thyme can be tucked under each wing, finely chopped herbs and/or finely grated lemon zest or orange zest may be sprinkled over the chicken.  Lastly, a splash of white wine and some chicken stock poured into the pan will be helpful for basting the chicken occasionally during the roasting process. 

One must-have in the kitchen when creating a roast chicken dinner is an extra large roasting pan.  The pan doesn’t need a rack or any other fancy accessories; just a basic stainless steel roasting pan from a reputable brand to ensure durability will do.  The extra-large size of the pan is to accommodate the rest of the meal; I did say let the oven do most of the work, didn’t I?

Once the chicken has been set in the center of the pan and sufficiently stuffed, rubbed and sprinkled, fill in the pan around the chicken with some vegetables.  Root vegetables are ideal because they can take the heat to roast in roughly the same amount of time as the chicken.  Carrots, parsnips, beets, fennel, turnips and rutabagas all work.  Butternut squash can also work when cut into larger chunks, or if added to the pan halfway through the chicken’s roasting time.  Add potatoes to the pan in addition to the vegetables, and then drizzle it all with extra-virgin olive oil and season with salt and pepper.  The entire pan is then covered with foil and relegated into a 450-degree oven.  Halfway through cooking time, remove the foil, stir the vegetables and continue to roast uncovered.

A three to four pound chicken will be cooked in roughly an hour to 90 minutes.  Larger specimens will take longer.  The other must-have for roasting any large bird or meat is a meat thermometer.  There are several styles available, and after going through three or four digital ones, my favorite is now a basic variation with a non-electronic dial.  When the thermometer probe is pierced into the thickest, meatiest part of the thigh, the temperature should read 180 for chicken when it is ready to eat.

All you will need to accompany this meal is perhaps a basic salad and some crusty bread.  I will often prepare a dinner like this in the morning, so that when the afternoon rolls around I need only to preheat the oven and slip the foil-covered pan from the refrigerator into the oven; dinner never feels so effortless on other nights.  Seasoning combinations and vegetable and starch selections are boundless.  Use up any odds and ends you find in your pantry and refrigerator.  One of my favorite recipes comes from an old Williams-Sonoma cookbook, for rosemary seasoned chicken that roasts with cubes potatoes.  Another hit is a recipe from Ina Garten (Barefoot Contessa), in which the chicken roasts with large homemade fresh bread croutons.  The bread toasts and also soaks up the flavorful juices.  I’ve come up with a perfect recipe for a one-pan roast chicken dinner to share with you below.

Herb Roasted Chicken

Ingredients:

1 7-pound chicken

1 lemon, quartered lengthwise

2 sprigs plus 8 leaves fresh sage

2 sprigs fresh rosemary leaves, finely chopped

1 head garlic, cloves separated and peeled

Extra virgin olive oil

Sea salt

Fresh cracked black pepper

2 fennel bulbs, each cut into eighths

1 bag baby-cut carrots

1 container baby Yukon gold or red-skinned potatoes, quartered

2 large onions, peeled, cut into eighths lengthwise

1 cup chicken stock

½ cup white wine

Preheat oven to 450-degrees.  Remove the bag of giblets and neck from the inside of the chicken and either discard or set aside for use in making stock.  Pat the chicken dry with paper towels and set in a large roasting pan.  Place the lemon quarters, garlic cloves and sage sprigs inside the chicken cavity.   Loosen the skin on top of the chicken and slip 4 sage leaves under the skin on each breast.  Rub the chicken with olive oil and sprinkle generously with salt, pepper and rosemary.  Mix and arrange the fennel, carrots, potatoes and onions around the chicken, filling the roasting pan.  Add the wine and stock, pouring evenly around the pan.  Drizzle olive oil over the vegetables and sprinkle them with salt and pepper.  Cover with foil and roast for 45 minutes.  Remove the foil, gently stir the vegetables and return to the oven for another 45 minutes.  Begin checking the bird’s temperature every few minutes until the thigh reads 180-degrees; then remove from the oven and allow the chicken to sit for fifteen minutes before carving.

The best part about a whole roasted chicken can be the magic that you create with leftover meat.  Cut up any remaining chicken after dinner and use it in Chicken Corn Chowder, chicken pot pie, chicken tacos, chicken salad sandwiches and more.

Ladles of Comfort

Winter is underway, which means that the temperatures are dropping to the tune of 'How Low Can You Go?' and snow is falling and winds gusts are calling.  It is that time of year once again, a time for hibernating within the warmth of home theaters and cozy media rooms, and for dining on heavier and heartier fare without guilt because the extra pounds can be concealed under bulky sweaters for the duration.

Nothing warms better than the aroma of a homemade soup simmering on the stove.  While a basic creamy asparagus soup or potato soup really only holds up as a first course, the heartiest soups can stand up as a meal.   A meal's balanced requisite protein, vegetable and carb sources are all offered in that one pot of winter goodness.

All soups begin with a stock as the liquid source.  If spending a Sunday afternoon at home with the family, consider making an extra large pot of stock for use in future soups.  The stock can be divided and frozen for easy retrieval when the cravings for soup abound.  A stock is simply water with added vegetables such as celery, garlic cloves, onions and carrots, seasonings such as sprigs of fresh herbs, whole peppercorns and sea salt, and a protein such as a turkey carcass, chicken wings or shrimp shells.  If you don't happen to have homemade stock available, a good quality stock from the supermarket can work just fine in a pinch.  Read the labels and be sure to choose one that lists only the same basic natural ingredients that you would use at home.  I like Kitchen Basics, but there are a few others.  When using store-bought stock, add salt sparingly to your soup recipe.

Once you have your stock, plan the remaining ingredients.  Stick to a theme or ethnicity and select ingredients accordingly.  Plan for vegetables, meat and carbs in the soup.  Carbs can be pasta, rice, potatoes, corn or beans.  Some vegetables need to simmer longer, such as carrots, while others, such as spinach or escarole, can be stirred in at the last minute until wilted.  Many soups begin by sautéing onions, garlic or shallots in olive oil or butter before adding the stock and remaining ingredients.

Whether preparing a soup or chowder, little is needed to accompany this one dish entree.  A simple green salad and an interesting bread, such as garlic toasts or cheesy rolls or Italian bakery bread studded with olives and rosemary are all you need.  Sorry, Atkins worshippers, soup demands bread with dinner like peanut butter demands jelly.

Try the recipes for my Mediterranean Roasted Eggplant Soup and Chicken corn chowder Here are three more recipes to try, starting with a first-course soup.  Once you make them and experience the big rewards from minimal labor, you'll abandon the mass-produced packaged soups in the cans.  So stock up on stock, and with a quick trip through the express lane of your supermarket you'll heat things up on those blustery days ahead.

Pot of Gold Potato Leek Soup

Ingredients:

2 leeks, thoroughly rinsed to remove sand, chopped

4 Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks

2 tablespoons butter

4-5 cups chicken stock

Sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper to taste

4 teaspoon snipped fresh chives

butter for garnish

Heat 2 tablespoons of butter in a stock pot over medium heat.  Add the leeks and saute for about five minutes.  Stir in the potatoes.  Add 4 cups of the stock and bring to a boil.  Reduce heat, cover and simmer for 30 minutes or until the potatoes are very tender.  Transfer the mixture to a blender container and puree until thick and smooth.  Return the soup to the pot and warm through, gradually adding more stock only if the soup is too thick and seasoning to taste with the salt and pepper.  Ladle into four bowls, top each serving with generous pat of butter and a teaspoon of the chives.  Makes four first-course servings.

Italian Wedding Soup

Ingredients:           

¾ pound ground beef

1/3 cup grated Parmesan or Romano cheese

½ cup breadcrumbs

1 teaspoon Italian seasoning

1 large egg

2 garlic cloves, minced

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon ground black pepper

Extra virgin olive oil

2 large cloves garlic, minced

8 cups chicken stock

½ cup acini pepe pasta

2 small heads escarole, coarsely torn

Combine beef, 1/3 cup of the cheese, breadcrumbs, egg, garlic, salt and pepper in a mixing bowl until thoroughly blended.  Lightly oil your hands with olive oil, then roll the meat mixture, a tablespoon at a time, into small meatballs. 

In a large stockpot, heat 1 tablespoon olive oil over medium heat.  Add the garlic and sauté for a minute.  Add the chicken stock and bring to a boil.  Reduce heat to a low boil and add meatballs.  Allow to cook for approximately ten minutes, then reduce heat to a simmer.  Add pasta and escarole and simmer for another five minutes until the pasta is cooked and the escarole is wilted.  When serving, sprinkle the top of each serving with additional grated Parmesan or Romano cheese and serve with warmed crusty Italian bread or focaccia on the side.  Makes four main-dish servings.

Five Bean Soup with Ham

Ingredients:           

1 onion, chopped

3 stalks celery, sliced crosswise

1 15-ounce can diced tomatoes

8 cups vegetable broth

½ of 15-ounce can cannellini beans, drained, rinsed

½ of 15-ounce can black-eyed peas, drained, rinsed

½ of 15-ounce can dark kidney beans, drained, rinsed

½ of 15-ounce can light red kidney beans, drained, rinsed

½ of 15-ounce can pinto beans, drained and rinsed

1 pound fully cooked ham steak, diced

Freshly cracked black pepper

In a large stockpot over medium-high heat, sauté onion for about five minutes.  Add all remaining ingredients.  Bring to a boil, then reduce heat, cover and simmer for about one hour.   Makes 6 main-dish servings.