With the rapid approach of
Easter, many of my Italian friends and family will be turning to a few culinary
traditions to grace the holiday table.
The Italian Easter pie or a tray of everyone’s favorite lasagna, both
bursting with the now easily accessible, grating cheeses known as
Pamigiano-Reggiano and Pecorino Romano, never fail to satiate one’s cravings
for traditional Italian food.
Many home cooks cavalierly
use these two cheeses interchangeably.
However, they are in fact two very different cheeses. For starters, Parmigiano-Reggiano is a
cow’s milk cheese, whereas Pecorino Romano is produced from sheep’s milk. Parmigiano-Reggiano is the result of
labor-intensive and attentive aging to acquire that pale golden straw hue and
tiny little granular crispies and boast a symphony of subtle flavor sensations
that include nutty, rich, wine, milky and simultaneously sweet and mildly
sharp. Pecorino Romano is
salt-cured for eight months, not aged, and offers a sharper flavor than
Parmigiano Reggiano. The curing
process renders a simpler, saltier tasting experience when sampling Pecorino
Romano.
There have been numerous
imitators of grated Italian cheese, from the dry, almost powder-like stuff
contained in the glass shakers that can be found on tables in pizzerias across
the nation to those unmentionable green cans of salty sawdust that infiltrated
our supermarket shelves several decades ago. Today, there is no excuse for using one of these flavorless
products. The proliferation
of the real thing now abounds in
every full-service supermarket.
While Parmigiano-Reggiano and Pecorino Romano can be purchased in wedges
or grated and packaged in those ubiquitous plastic tubs, the freshest flavor
will be imparted into your dish and permeate your taste buds if you opt for the
wedge and grate only what you need at the moment that you need it for your
cooking needs. Once grated and
left in a container, the flavors fade quickly.
Both cheeses can be used in
an extensive array of culinary presentations. They may be grated and sprinkled over pasta dishes, risottos
and soups. They can be shaved into
paper-thin curls to scatter over salads, gnocchi entrees and carpaccios. They can be generously sprinkled over
pizzas, gratins or other baked dishes to melt in the oven or broiler. They can also be savored simply as part
of a cheese course with a glass of red wine. What to do with the rind? It makes a perfect flavor booster when heaped into homemade
soups to simmer along with the other ingredients. So yes, when making your own culinary creation, you
certainly can use the two interchangeably. Both variations of your dish will be delicious, just
understand that they are in fact two different styles of cheese and the flavor
differences will vary the dish.
Need an appetizer for your
Easter celebration dinner? Here’s an option that offers up several flavors of
Italy, including a perfectly-matched couple from Parma: Prosciutto and
Parmigiano-Reggiano.
Crostini
with Prosciutto Arugula and Parmigiano-Reggiano
Ingredients:
1 loaf of ciabatta bread
Extra virgin olive oil
1 large wedge
Parmigiano-Reggiano
1 container baby arugula
Freshly cracked black
pepper
Make the pesto and set
aside. Preheat oven to 450-degrees.
Slice the ciabatta in half lengthwise horizontally, then cut the two
halves crosswise into eight pieces.
Brush the cut sides liberally with the olive oil and place the bread on
a baking sheet. Place in the oven
for ten minutes, or until the bread is crisp and the cut sides appear slightly
toasted. Remove from the
oven.
Spread a tablespoon of
pesto over the cut side of each bread.
Loosely top each bread with a few slices of the pancetta, simply
dropping the slices so that they fall into a ruffled appearance. Scatter some arugula over each. Thinly shave wide curl and slivers of
the Parmigiano-Reggiano and sprinkle them on top of the arugula. Finally, drizzle each crostini with
extra virgin olive oil, sprinkle with freshly cracked black pepper and
serve. Makes 8 first-course
servings or four lunch entrees.
Next time you feel like
embarking on a cheese-tasting comparison, toss wedges of both cheeses on your
cheese board, along with two other similar Italian cheeses: Asagio, a cow’s
milk cheese that is also commonly grated for use in Italian cooking and can be
purchased at various years of aging, and Grana Padano, another hard, grate-able
cow’s milk cheese. Pour a fine
Italian red wine and enjoy!
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